Slot Car Corner - Making a Controller Adapter

Slot Car Corner

Adding An XLR Connector to Your Driver Stations

Note: Click on any of the thumbnails throughout the article to see a larger image (Use Browser "Back" Button to Return)

Introduction

This is the second article in a three part series about XLR connectors. The first article, entitled "Adding An XLR Connector to Your Controller", began by discussing the many advantages an XLR connector offers when used with 1/32 slot car controllers. The article then went on to provide detailed step-by-step instructions to replace your existing controller connector(s) with an XLR connector. This article, the second in the series, provides illustrated step-by step instructions which show you how to add an XLR jack to your driver stations. Note that while I've used one of my controller hookup panels to illustrate the steps, the same basic steps can be easily adapted to most driver's stations which provide standard red, white and black hookups. The existing hookups can be posts, stereo jacks (1/4" or mini), banana jacks, or just about anything else including driver's stations which provide multiple types of hookups. The third article in the series, entitled "Making a Controller Adapter - XLR to Alligator Clips" describes how to make an adapter so you can use your controller (with XLR connector) on tracks without an XLR jack (e.g. traditional 3 post hookups such as those on many commercial tracks).

Before Starting - What Is Your Standard?

Before proceeding with the step-by-step instructions, there is one prerequisite to cover off. If you belong to a club planning to use XLR connectors or race at other tracks which offer XLR connections, you will need to wire the 3 connectors according to an agreed upon standard. The Shoreline Model Raceways club I belong to adopted a standard which was already in use by the HSARC club in the greater Houston, TX area. The accompanying picture shows which adapter wire will be connected (soldered) to which XLR connector "pin". If you look very closely, you will see the pin numbers embossed in the plastic next to each solder pot.

Step-by-Step Instructions

The picture to the right shows the basic components needed to fabricate and install an XLR jack at your driver's station. To assemble and install the XLR jack, you'll need the following tools and materials - a soldering iron (with stand and cleaning sponge), rosin core solder, rosin flux, a wire cutter/stripper, a small clamp or vise, a hot glue gun, a drill with a 7/8" and 1/8" bits, a small phillips screwdriver and a wrench. Always wear safety glasses and follow all manufacturer's instructions and safety guidelines when using tools.

Note: The components shown are available in kit form in the Online Store. If you prefer, pre-assembled adapters are also available for purchase.

Start by stripping about 1/4" of sheathing from one end of all 3 wires as shown.

Twist the bare wire so it is "tight" with no strands sticking out. Put a small amount of liquid flux on the wire and then crimp a spade terminal connector onto the end of the wire as shown. Repeat for the remaining two (2) wires.

Here's a little tip which I use a lot - it's a real timesaver when soldering connectors onto multiple wires. Use a quick release clamp like the one shown to hold each of the wires in place for soldering. Try to keep the amount of wire between the clamp and connectors to a minimum as shown so the wires don't "flop" all over the place when you are soldering.

Now solder each spade connector to the wire. Haven't soldered before? Spade connectors are a great way to learn!! Make sure to clean and tin your soldering iron tip before soldering each connector. Note the position of the soldering iron tip - it is "behind" the connector. The solder is being fed into the "front" of the joint. You don't need much solder and DON"T force ("push") the solder - once it starts to "flow" (the solder will actually get "pulled" into the joint), feed a small amount (1/4" - 3/8") and then pull the solder away. Wait another second or two and remove the soldering iron tip from the back of the connector. Always let the joint cool (set up) for several seconds before moving it.

Tip: If you're just learning to solder, practice the steps described above with the soldering iron turned off. Make sure you can perform all of the steps without referring to this write-up before trying it for real.

Remove the three (3) wires from the clamp and strip away about 1/4" of sheathing from the other end of each wire. Wrap the wire strands tightly as shown.

Now use your soldering iron to "tin" the end of each wire. Apply some liquid flux to the end of each wire. Make sure your soldering iron tip is clean and apply a small drop of solder to the tip. Touch the tip to the bare wire - the solder should "flow" from the soldering iron tip to the wire as shown. Don't overdue it - you want just a thin coating of solder.

Now use a quick release clamp to hold the XLR jack securely as shown. Soldering the wires to the jack's solder pots will be MUCH easier if you have both hands free.

Before soldering each wire, apply some liquid flux to each of the solder pots as shown.

Recall the pinout configuration our club uses is 1 - black; 2 - white and 3 - red. You can solder the wires to the corresponding solder pots in any order - I started with the white wire (pot #2). The tinned end of the white wire was dabbed with some liquid flux and inserted into the solder pot labeled "2" and soldered as shown in the accompanying picture. If desired, you can then reposition the fitting in the clamp to facilitate soldering the next wire.

Tip: Soldering the tinned wire into the solder pot is not difficult; however, figuring out how to best position the tip of your soldering iron so it makes contact with BOTH the solder pot housing and tinned wire can be a bit tricky. It's a good idea to work through this before actually applying the solder.

Tip: If you didn't put too much solder on the end of the wire when you tinned it (and you're using roughly 14 gauge wire to begin with), the tinned wire end should slip snugly into the solder pot. However, you'll still wish you had 3 hands to solder this joint - one to hold the wire in position (it has a tendency to droop if you don't), one to hold your soldering iron and one to hold your solder and feed it into the joint. I "cheat" here by using one hand to hold the wire in position and then use the other hand to hold the soldering iron. Touch the tip of the soldering iron to your solder to pickup a small drop and then solder the joint. The flux on the wire and in the solder pot will draw the solder off the tip of the soldering iron into the joint.

Once the solder joint for the shite wire has cooled, apply some liquid flux to the next solder pot (#1 in the picture) and the tinned end of the black wire. Insert the tinned end of the black wire into the solder pot labeled "1" and solder the joint.

Just one more wire to go (the red one in my case)! Follow the procedure described above for the white and black wires to solder the red wire to solder pot #3 as shown.

The XLR jack is now ready for installation in your driver's station.

Here's a picture of the driver's station "before" installing the XLR jack. The XLR jack will be mounted just to the right of the driver's station.

Start by determining where you want to mount the jack. Mark the center of the hole and drill the mounting hole. If you are using one of the XLR jack's included in a Slot Car Corner kit, the hole should be 7/8" in diameter.

Caution: BEFORE drilling any holes, check under/behind the driver's station to ensure there are no obstructions such as wires. Adjust the position of the mounting hole as required.

Look closely at the XLR jack housing - you will see 3 small half-round protrusions (2 are shown in the accompanying picture - the third is hidden "behind" the jack) and one larger protrusion (shown on front of accompanying picture) which corresponds to the release button.

Mark the area around the hole circumference where additional material will need to be removed to provide clearance for the protrusions on the XLR jack. Use a small file or Dremel to carefully remove this material.

Work slowly and use the XLR jack to test the fit frequently. Try not to remove any more material than necessary - particularly where holes for the machine screws which secure the jack will be drilled.

Make sure the jack sits flush with the driver's station surface before proceeding.

Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill mounting holes through the surface of your driver's station using the mounting holes in the jack as a template. Secure the XLR jack using machine screws as shown.

Caution: BEFORE drilling any holes, check under/behind the driver's station to ensure there are no obstructions.

In addition to securing the jack with screws, it is a good idea to run a bead of hot glue around the jack where it protrudes from the underside of the driver's station. Be careful NOT to put any glue around the wide protrusion which houses the push button release mechanism (at the "top" of the jack in the accompanying picture).

The three (3) wires from the XLR jack will be connected to the corresponding wires/posts on the underside of the controller hookup panel. For this particular setup, the spade terminals attached to the end of each XLR jack wire will be inserted between the corresponding post and metal washer. Your controller hookup panel design may differ - if so, adjust the remaining steps to accomodate your setup. For example, it may be easier to solder the end of each XLR connector directly to the corresponding post.

Carefully loosen the nuts which secure each of the hookup posts to the panel base. Loosen each nut 2-3 turns to allow sufficient clearance for the spade terminals to be inserted between the base of the post and metal washer (if present) on the underside of the panel.

Connect the first spade connector to the corresponding post by sliding it between the base of the post and washer (if present) on the underside of the panel as shown. Hold the spade terminal in place and carefully re-tighten the nut which secures the post in place. Repeat for the remaining two (2) terminals.

Once all three (3) XLR jack wires have been connected to the controller hookup panel, they should look something like this. Again, you may have to use a different method to connect the wires (e.g. solder directly to the posts).

Your XLR jack is now ready for use!

Summary

There you have it!! This is a relatively easy project (it should take about an hour to complete) and the finished XLR jack is a welcome addition to any driver's station.

Remember to check out the other XLR-related articles in this series listed below: