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Shoreline Model Raceways – Portable Track Project (“Gypsy”) |
| By
Mike Chiocchio, Dick Mcmanus, and Steve Sawtelle |
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| Copyright (c) 2006 by Slot Car Corner L.L.C. - All Rights Reserved. |
| Copyright (c) 2006 by Steve Sawtelle - All Rights Reserved. |
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| Background |
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Shortly after the
Shoreline Model Raceways Club began the transition from plastic
to wood tracks about 2 years ago, the three co-authors of this article
began kicking around building a portable track. Over the next year or
so, discussions continued – as a result, some general design goals
evolved and were firmed up. Key goals included:
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Minimizing material costs,
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Ease of transport and setup,
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Reliability,
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Providing a challenging venue for club sponsored races and special
events,
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Maximizing track time for racers,
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Allowing as many club members as possible to be involved during
construction of the layout (no special skills required),
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The portable track would be a classic "D" shaped
tri-oval constructed from ½” MDF with 5 lanes, 3-1/2" lane spacing and
5/16" deep slots. The overall footprint would be approximately 21' long
and 9' wide at the dogleg. Construction and wiring would use the same
basic techniques employed when building other club member’s wood
tracks. Most materials were available locally – remaining materials
were widely available through the internet. The track would consist of
seven (7) track segments which could be assembled and disassembled
quickly and easily. Modular legs which could be easily removed for
transport would provide a sturdy base for the track. The wiring and
track power would be as straightforward as possible for reliability yet
permit some "tuning" of individual lanes to ensure cars running in each
lane would be as close as possible when actually racing (to offset lane
lengths ranging from 39' to 46'). Dead strips and a computerized race
management system would handle lap counting and timing chores. |
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| In the
following sections of this article, details of various aspects of track
design and construction (including braiding, wiring and installation of
the race management system) are provided. Readers should keep in mind
there are often many ways to complete a given design or construction
task. The material presented herein is not intended to be "THE only
way" or "THE best way" to perform a given task. Instead, this write-up
shares how our club approached various tasks - you may decide to take
the same approach we did, modify our approach or take a completely
different approach altogether. Our primary goals in writing this
article are twofold - first, to share information, and second to
(hopefully...) inspire other clubs/individuals to build a portable track
and share their experiences with other slot car racers as well. |
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| Note: Be sure to check back from time-to-time as we will be updated this
page with additional information and pictures as work on Gypsy
continues. |
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| Fabricating the Track Modules |
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| Track
construction began in the Spring of 2006. The first task was to firm up
the design of the track modules which would ultimately be assembled to
form the layout. In keeping with the club's design goals of simplicity
and minimizing cost, the seven (7) modules which make up the portable
track layout were cut from just three (3) sheets of 1/2" MDF. Click on
the link below to see a diagram which shows how this was done. |
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Gypsy Track Modules |
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The individual track modules were then fabricated
including the underlying support members and knockdown legs. Frames for
the track modules were constructed using 1”x4" #2 pine.
Tip: Even if you are very careful
to hand select your lumber at the time of purchase, it will not be
perfectly straight. Be sure to examine the edges of all lumber and
place the "crowns" facing up when constructing the frames. |
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Once
the MDF racing surface is attached to the frame, it acts like a stress
skin panel which adds further strength. The accompanying picture was
actually taken during the wiring phase of the project; however, it
provides some insight into how each track module was constructed. The
numbered circles are described in more detail below.
- Small square blocks were glued to the inside
of all 4 corners to give the frame more strength.
- Scaled down cross members were interspersed
with full-size cross members. The smaller cross members add very
little weight to each track module; however, they increase
structural integrity and prevent the track surface from bowing or
warping. The cross members also facilitate routing and securing
track wiring so it is out of harm’s way.
- Small pieces of plywood were glued behind each
of the driver's stations. This allowed the eye bolts which are used
for controller hookups to be recessed while providing a sturdy
mounting surface.
- Slots for the removable legs (a corresponding
slot is on the opposite side of the track module hidden from the
camera) allow the legs to be slid securely into place without
requiring fasteners. The opposite end of this track module has
another pair of slots as well.
- Note the holes drilled through the ends of
each track module to allow the braid ends to be fed "inside" the
track module. The braid was intentionally cut a little longer than
necessary to allow an easy workaround should electrical connectivity
become an issue in the future. The excess braid lengths were
secured neatly underneath the track sections with a wooden "keeper"
in a later phase of construction.
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Small blocks of scrap MDF were glued to the underside of the MDF
used for the racing surface. This allowed the terminal blocks to be
securely fastened without damaging the racing surface or track
slots.
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 The racing surface was then brush painted
with 3 coats of flat interior latex (light gray). No primer was
used. The paint was lightly sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between
coats. Once the paint dried, a
razor blade was used to carefully remove any high points or particles
from the paint. The accompanying pictures show the Gypsy modules
being test fitted together for the first time. |
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Lesson Learned:
Were we to do this again, we would have painted all surfaces including
the underside of the MDF and the frame members on the underside of the
track at this point in the construction process. |
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| Construction - Braiding |
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One of the key decisions during the design and
construction phases was whether to use copper tape or tinned copper
braid (we ruled out Magnabraid for a couple of reasons – cost and the
Shoreline Model Raceways club runs non-magnet cars only). Copper tape
was less expensive and easier to install (less preparation) while braid
offered more durability but required more upfront preparation and was
more costly. In the end, the decision was to go with braid - the extra
durability was a key factor as the track would need to stand up to the
rigors of transport and being frequently setup and taken down. Braid
also simplified track wiring somewhat (more on this later). We
purchased the tinned copper braid from
Allied Wire & Cable in Merrimack, NH – the price was very
reasonable and our order shipped quickly. Despite our rather unique
application, our Account Representative (Alana) was very helpful and
ensured all 600’ of braid arrived in perfect condition. |
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Tip:
When calculating how much braid will be required for your project, don’t
forget to take into account the power tap “drops” and braid required to
run down the ends of each track section and secured underneath. |
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| Here are several pictures of the braid installation process. |
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The
first picture shows the "gains" which were routed on both sides of each
slot where the braid will be attached. The gains have been carefully
cut slightly wider than the braid (to ensure car guides will never foul
the braid) and to a depth so the top surface of the installed braid will
sit just slightly (.005") below the track surface. |
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In
the next picture, Dick Mcmanus (aka "mcmannix") is spreading contact
cement in the "gains" cut on both sides of the slot. |
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A
clean plank was set across some scaffolding to cut and prepare the braid
for installation. Once the measurements for each braid segment were
determined, braid was carefully unrolled on the plank and cut to the
correct length. |
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Here
Mike Chiocchio (aka "Smokeio") is using a dispensing bottle to run a
fine bead of contact cement along the entire length of the braid (less
the last couple of inches on each end which would be dangling from the
underside of the track section once installed). |
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 A
second club member, Larry Sorensen, follows closely behind with a small brush to
smooth out the bead of contact cement ensuring the braid has a complete,
smooth coat. The contact cement is then allowed to dry for about
15 minutes until it is no longer tacky. |
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Of
course, every job goes smoother with a "supervisor". Here Dick
Mcmanus is overseeing Mike and Larry applying contact cement to the
braid. |
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Once
the contact cement has been applied to the track surface and allowed to
dry, braid installation can begin. While a single person could install
the braid, a second person makes this task much easier. Here Dick
Mcmanus (right) is carefully applying the braid to the track surface.
Dick is being very careful to ensure one edge of the braid butts up
against the "back" side of each gain. Larry Sorensen (left) holds the
remaining portion of the braid away from the track surface to ensure it
does not accidentally touch any of the contact cement on the track
module. Braid installation is surprisingly fast and straightforward
(faster than copper tape) - the real work is in preparation of the track
surface and applying the contact cement. |
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Here's
is a close-up which shows the braid being carefully applied to the gain
cut on one side of the slot. This particular track module is the dogleg
curve - applying braid to curves is much easier than copper tape because
of the braid weave. Once installed and rolled, the braid is perfectly
flat. |
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This
picture shows braid segments installed for 2 of the 5 lanes on one of
the straight track modules. As each braid segment is installed, a "J"
roller is used to ensure the contact cement on the underside of the
braid is making firm contact with the contact cement applied to the
gains in the track surface. Note the braid was run straight down each
end of the track module (where it was secured using contact cement) and
through pre-drilled holes. The ends of the braid segments were
eventually cut and secured to the underside of the track module using a
wooden “keeper”. When the track is assembled and all track modules
bolted together, the braid from adjacent track sections will make firm
contact with one another ensuring excellent electrical conductivity
around the entire layout. Should there ever be any problems with
electrical connectivity between track sections, the ends of individual
braid segment can be temporarily wired together if necessary. |
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Here's
a close-up of how the braid was secured to the end of each track module. |
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Braid
installation for this track module is complete with the exception of
trimming excess braid from the loose ends and securing the braid to the
underside of the track. The braid will be rolled several more
times to ensure the contact cement makes the best possible bond. |
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| Track Power and Wiring |
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In keeping with the overall design goals of the
track, wiring was kept as simple as possible. Steve Sawtelle from
Slot Car Corner and Dick Mcmanus developed the overall track
wiring plan. Slot Car Corner also provided most of the wiring
components including a custom
wiring kit. The five (5) driver’s stations are split between
the two (2) straight track modules leading into and out of the dogleg
corner. When you are standing in front of the dogleg, the straight
section to your left (the straight leading into the dogleg corner)
includes the driver's stations for lanes 1 and 2. The driver's stations
for the remaining 3 lanes are located in the straight section to the
right of the dogleg (the straight section leading out of the dogleg).
Wiring for both track modules needed to be completely self-contained for
easy of assembly, disassembly and transport. When the track is setup
for racing, the power supply is located under the dogleg section. A
terminal block mounted to the underside of the dogleg "splits" power to
the two (2) adjacent straight track modules. Temporary jumper wires are
wired between the terminal block under the dogleg with terminal blocks
on both straight sections. Here are some diagrams which provide
additional information about how we approached this. |
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Track Wiring Diagrams (Small Format)
Track Wiring Diagrams (Large Format) |
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The
accompanying picture shows the underside of the straight section leading
into the dogleg. This track section houses the driver's stations for
lanes 1 and 2. The terminal block in the upper right-hand corner will
be connected via temporary wiring to a corresponding terminal block on
the underside of the dogleg. The picture also shows the "+" (white) and
"-" (red) wires feeding each of the driver's stations. Wherever
possible, wiring was run along structural members to help protect the
wiring from accidental damage. Wiring clips were used to secure the
wiring - again, this helps reduce the possibility of the wires being
damaged if they were to get snagged on something. |
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Here
is a close-up of the wiring for one of the driver's stations. A ring
terminal has been crimped and soldered to the braid segment on either
side of the slot. Heat shrink was placed over the braid before hand to
prevent accidental short circuits. In addition to hookups for alligator
clips, an XLR jack was also wired into each driver's stations. If you
look closely, you will see short lengths of heat shrink covering the 3
wires where they are attached (soldered) to the XLR connector. Each
length of wire was cut to the exact length required - excess wire
increases the chance of damage during transport and assembly. Stranded
copper wire (12 gauge) was used throughout except the XLR jacks (14
gauge because of the size of the solder pots on the jack). |
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Eye
bolts were used instead of traditional brass posts for a couple of
reasons. First, we wanted to avoid anything sticking out from the side
of the track modules since it would be prone to damage. The ends of the
brass posts would have a tendency to catch on things when you least
expect it. Second, while brass posts could have been shortened to fit
inside the recesses, the short posts make it difficult to hookup a
controller. The round profile of the eye bolt is safe and easy to make
controller connections to. An XLR jack and 3 amp thermal circuit
breaker round out the driver's stations. |
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Power
is provided by a Pyramid PS26-KX variable DC power supply. This is a
regulated power supply which can be adjusted from 6 - 15 volts. The
PS26-KX is rated at 22 amps of continuous current so there is more than
enough power on tap for the 1/32 cars the Shoreline Club typically
runs. Power supply voltage is set between 9 and 10 volts for racing. |
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| Track Tuning |
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| One of
the inherent downsides of an oval design is the difference in lane
lengths - in our case about 7' from the inside lane (39') to the outside
lane (46'). Even before installing the race management system it was
obvious the inner lanes were the quick way around the track. There are
two (2) general approaches to deal with this: |
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- Do nothing. The thinking here is since all
racers will race in each lane, it will all even out in the wash.
While this is true, it generally means the cars get spread out and
depending on the length of heat races, cars on the faster (inside)
lanes may pass cars running on the outer lanes. In general, this
approach does not make for close racing in any given heat.
- Tune the lanes to make performance (as
measured by the clock) as close as possible. While it is virtually
impossible to have all lanes exactly equal, it is possible to get
fairly close with minimal time and effort. The result is closer,
side-by-side racing. Like the first alternative, any remaining
differences in lane performance are offset by rotating racers
through each lane.
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| Our
club opted for the second approach since a couple of our member's tracks
have been tuned in this fashion with very good results. Here's the
approach we took. |
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First, we had one of the club's more consistent drivers race on each
lane with no other cars on the track. The club member would
generally run 20-25 laps on each lane to get a best time and average
time. The same car was used for all testing. This information was
recorded.
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Next, a second club member repeated the process described above.
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The results were then reviewed to determine how much difference
(again, as measured by lap times) there was across the 5 lanes. In
our case, the innermost 2 lanes were about 3/10th's of a second
quicker than the outer 3 lanes. The outer 3 lanes were surprisingly
close (less than 1/10th second) to each other. Since the outermost
lanes were already within 1/10th second, we decided not to make any
adjustments to these lanes. Therefore, our initial tuning efforts
would focus just on the innermost 2 lanes.
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A
single diode was then inserted into the "+" wire leading from the power
supply to the driver's stations for the 2 innermost lanes. This reduces
voltage to these lanes by about 3/10th's of a volt. The track wiring
design anticipated the possibility of adding diodes to adjust
performance for a given lane. The accompanying picture shows 2 white
wire segments attached to the upper left side of the terminal block.
The upper white wire is from the power supply (there is actually another
terminal block between the power supply and this terminal block to
provide a feed to each of the driver's stations). The lower white wire
is eventually connected to the white "post" on the driver's station. On
most tracks, this would be a single piece of wire. If you look
carefully, you will see 2 bridging clips attached to the 3 upper right
screws/posts of the terminal block which effectively connect these 2
white wire segments. So why did we do this? The terminal block
provides a very easy way to wire one or more diodes (in series) into the
wiring for a given lane. To add a diode using this setup, follow the
steps below.
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  Start
with a diode sized for the types of cars/motors you run (this one is
rated at 3 amps). Carefully bend the wire leads as shown. Adjust
the distance between the leads to match the spacing of the
screws/posts on your terminal blocks as shown.
-
 Next,
crimp and solder 2 ring terminals to the ends of the diode leads as
shown.
-
 Remove
one of the bridging clips and replace it with the diode fashioned
above. Note the orientation of the silver band on the diode - this
is very important because voltage only flows through a diode in one
direction. The silver band should be facing toward the driver's
station / track (i.e. the "load" side). A single diode will reduce
voltage to this lane by about 3/10th's of a volt.
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 The
second bridging clip can also be removed and replaced with a second
diode if desired. While this particular design is limited to a
maximum of 2 diodes, "longer" (more pairs of posts/screws) terminal
blocks could be used to allow even more diodes if necessary. Keep
in mind it is very unlikely you will need to use more than 2 diodes
for a given lane.
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| After
inserting the diodes (1 diode for each of the 2 innermost lanes), the
same testing process described earlier in this section was repeated.
Lap times across all 5 lanes are now within about 1/10th of a second.
Variations in car setup, driving styles and other variables can easily
account for a 1/10th second difference in lap times so no further tuning
was performed. Should additional tuning be required in the future, the
same basic technique described above will be used. |
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| Race Management |
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Because all existing Shoreline Model Raceways club tracks use Trakmate
race management software, Trakmate for Windows was a natural choice for
the portable track. Dead strip sections were included in one of the two
straight sections which form the main 16' straight. The dead strips are
located near the end of the track section - this is the same end which
gets bolted up to the adjacent straight track section. With this
arrangement, the dead strips are located roughly halfway down the main
straight when the track is assembled. |
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| The
Trakmate for Windows interface board was installed beneath the dogleg
track section - this is the same track sections where the power supply
connections are made. A slightly different wiring arrangement was used
for the track call button. On many tracks running Trakmate, the wires
leading to the track call button are wired directly into 2 connectors on
the interface board. This works well if the track call button is
permanently mounted (e.g. alongside the driver's stations and/or at the
race director's table). However, since our track call button was a hand
held setup on the end of a long wire, the interface board could be
damaged if someone pulled too hard (or accidentally tripped) on the
track call button wire. To prevent this, a 2 position terminal block
was installed close to the Trakmate interface board. Two wires were
then run from one side of the terminal block to the interface board.
The 2 wires from the track call button were then wired into the other
side of the terminal block. With this arrangement, if someone pulls too
hard on the track call button wire, the terminal block serves as a
buffer to prevent damage to the interface board. It also makes
attaching and detaching the track call button when setting up and taking
down the track easier. |
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| The
end of the dead strip interface cable which is attached to the actual
dead strips is permanently attached - it gets coiled up and stored in a
special protective sleeve under the straight section during transport.
To install, the cable is carefully removed from the protective sleeve
and uncoiled. The cable is run across the "inside" portion of the track
so the other end of the dead strip interface cable can be connected to
the Trakmate interface board. A tie wrap is used to fashion a temporary
strain relief to prevent damage to the interface board from the weight
of the cable. A serial cable (provided with the Trakmate setup) is then
run from the Trakmate interface board across the "inside" of the track
and connected to a PC laptop computer which is used to run the Trakmate
software. When actually assembling the track, the wiring connections
described above for the Trakmate race management system only take a
couple of minutes. |
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| One
final item which works in conjunction with the race management software
is a light box. This was originally designed for hearing impaired
racers (who have difficulty hearing the “beeps” during the countdown
sequence at the beginning of a race or a restart). While they could
look at the computer screen to see a visual countdown (“lights” on
screen), doing so would require them to take their eyes off the car.
This can be very awkward, particularly on restarts where the car is in a
corner or technical sections. With the light box setup, racers can
remain focused on their car while watching the light box out of the
corner of their eye. The accompanying pictures show the box which was
designed and fabricated by Dick Mcmanus. A removable cover protects the
light bulbs during transport. |
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The
light box is setup in the middle of the layout when racing – here it can
easily be seen by all racers. Wiring is straightforward; a 12V relay
inside the light box operates in conjunction with the 12V relay which
controls track power. When the track relay is “closed” (power flowing
through relay to track), the light box’s green light is on; when the
track relay is “open”, the red light is lit. |
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| The First Test... |
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| The
first complete test of the portable track took place on September 10,
2006. Several Shoreline Model Raceways club members helped setup the
track and complete the wiring for the Trakmate for Windows race
management system. Several test races were then held to ensure
everything worked properly - this included running several actual races
using the Trakmate for Windows race management system. The track,
wiring and race management system worked flawlessly! |
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| Here are some pictures taken during the testing session. |
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| Pictures courtesy of Rich ("Dr. D") Dumas. |
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| Pictures courtesy of Larry Sorensen. |
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| Pictures courtesy of Don "Bubba" Willis. |
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The
track was subsequently transported to Massachusetts early in October
2006 where it was one of two tracks the New England Challenge (NEC) was
contested on. Transporting the track was uneventful – once onsite,
setup took about an hour including unloading the track from the pickup
truck used to transport it. Over the course of the 1-1/2 days of the
event, an estimated 7,000- 8,000 laps were run with only one minor
problem. The XLR jacks were a different make/model than those we used
on our other club tracks – this particular design has a rather flimsy
release tab. On one of the jacks, the tab jammed and eventually broke
rendering it useless; however, we were able to use the eye ring hookups
and an adapter so controllers with XLR connectors could continue to be
used. |
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Note: The original XLR jacks have
since been replaced with the beefier XLR jacks we use on the other club
tracks. |
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Both the Nextel and JGTC cars performed well on the
track. Traction was excellent – most Nextel cars used PPR’s while the
JGTC’s used a spec IndyGrips tire (1103). Lap times during the race
ranged from the high 3.4 to low 3.6 second range for the Nextel class –
the JGTC cars were just a couple of tenths slower. Racing in both
classes was close, competitive and fun! All-in-all, the track’s racing
debut was very successful – many participants complimented the Shoreline
club on the track. The 2 track format for the event which was made
possible by the portable track was also a big success – racers had far
more track time as a result. Over the course of the event, each of the
23 racers actually raced for almost an hour (9 lanes * 3 minute heats *
2 classes). Whenever logistics permit, future NEC races will continue
to use this 2 track format. Here are a few pictures from the NEC event. |
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| Before Hitting The Road... |
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To help ensure everything works right when the
track is transported to an off-site racing venue, a pre-transport
checklist was developed. Many of the items are obvious (e.g. the 7
major track sections); however, even seemingly obvious items can be
easily overlooked or forgotten when getting ready to take the track on
the road. The checklist also includes spare parts which might be
required should repairs to the track become necessary. The checklist
will continue to evolve based on lessons learned when transporting the
track. To view the checklist, click on the link below.
Pre-Transport Checklist |
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| Some Final Thoughts... |
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In retrospect, this had been a very rewarding
project for the entire Shoreline Model Raceways club. The finished
product is something all club members can be very proud of - the
workmanship and attention to detail is evident throughout. Special
thanks to Dick Mcmanus and Mike Chiocchio for keeping the project moving
along over the course of several months and engaging other club members
throughout the construction process whenever possible. Thanks also to
club members who helped out by making donations to defray expenses and
giving up their valuable time to help turn a sketch on a piece of paper
into reality. This was a great learning experience for everyone
involved. |
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| Future
enhancements are already being discussed such as additional track
modules which will transform the current "D" shaped oval into a road
course layout. |
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| For
other clubs who might be considering a similar project, please
contact us if you would like more specifics. |
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About the Authors |
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Mike Chiocchio (aka “Smokeio”) lives in Branford,
CT where he is currently undergoing therapy after the Shoreline Club
lost the prestigious New England Challenge (NEC) Trophy to the H.O.S.T.
(New Hampshire) club. Mike is a co-founder of the Shoreline Model
Raceways Club. |
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Dick Mcmanus (aka “mcmannix”) lives in Clinton,
CT. Dick is the club’s resident woodworking and mechanical genius.
Dick recently won his first ever slot car race (at least according to
Smokeio…) despite racing slot cars competitively for over 20 years.
Like Mike, Dick is a co-founder of the Shoreline Model Raceways Club. |
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Steve Sawtelle (aka “SlotCarCorner”) lives in
Storrs, CT. Steve is an official SCI advertiser who offers custom
fabricated
driver’s stations and high-quality
wiring products through his
Slot Car Corner website. Steve is busily making preparations to
host another Endurance Race at Area 51 Raceway sometime in early 2007
(the last one drew 32 racers from as far away as Canada…). |
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| Mike,
Dick and Steve are frequent contributors to several online slot car
forums. |
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You will need Adobe(R) Acrobat(R)
Reader software to view the diagram of Gypsy's track modules and the
pre-transport checklist linked to on this page. Acrobat(R)
Reader is free - you can download it from the Adobe(R)
website by clicking on the icon below. |
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